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显示标签为“1300mAh 4S”的博文。显示所有博文

2017年4月21日星期五

Build a Mini Racing Quadcopter

I want to fly a plane in the sky, but it is very difficult to achieve. FPV quadcopter help me come true my dream. Flying things are cool, especially when theyre fast! Follow along as I build this 250 sized mini FPV racing quad.

These are my Quadcopter Materials:
1806 2300KV Brushless Motor x4pcs

HobbySky 20A Simonk Brushless ESC x 4pcs

H250 ZMR250 250mm Carbon Fiber Mini Quadcopter Multicopter Frame Kit

CC3D Openpilot Flight Controller with Black Case 

6030 6*3 2-Blade CW CCW Nylon Propeller x4

Tattu 1300mAh 4S 75C Lipo battery  

Optional for FPV video

7″ Inch TFT LCD Mirror Monitor 
TS5828 5.8Ghz 600mW AV Wireless Transmitter

RC832 5.8G AV Receiver 32CH
10800TVL PCB Board Camera

Step 1: Build That Frame
Grab your frame parts and get assembling, there are a load off slightly different designs out there so I recommend following the instructions that came with your frame. If you didnt get any like me then have a good guess. Youll figure it out eventually!

Step 2: Mount That Motor

This steps pretty easy, just grab your motors and screw them to your frame with those tiny bolts that came with your motor. Drop a little bit of thread-lock onto the bolts if your worried about them vibrating out.

Step 3: Divide That Power

Okay so a quadcopter has 4 motors, which means we need 4 electronic speed controllers (ESCs) to power the motors, one for each motor. Im using a power distribution board which splits the power from the battery to each ESC. You can just solder the wires together but using a board makes it much easier and usually more reliable. Make sure you get the polarity right or youll be sure to release the magic smoke. Youll also want to solder some wires to connect to your battery. Im using an XT-60 connector. I secured the board to the bottom with double sided foam tape. That stuffs really useful! Use zip ties to strap the ESCs to the arms and tidy the power wires.

Step 4: Connect That Motor


So we have the ESCs and the motors but there not connected together yet. Lets change that. Usually I use bullet connectors but as this is a racing quad we want it to be as light as possible so I chose to just solder the wires together. Your going to want to use heat-shrink on all the connections to prevent short circuits but dont shrink it yet as you might need to swap some connections later on. Just solder each of the 3 wires from the ESC to a motor wire. Give the freshly soldered connection a tug to make sure its secure. Then slide the heat-shrink over the connection but remember to not shrink it yet.

Step 5: Stick on That Flight Controller

Theres loads of multi-rotor flight controllers out there. Ive read some good things about the CC3D so I used it for this build. I think its great! Really simple to setup and flys really well. I mounted it with some more of the foam tape which works well, make sure the its pointing forward. Follow the wiring diagram to connect the ESCs to the CC3D, well connect the receiver in the next step.
Step 6: Connect That Computer

Youll want to download the open pilot software from
https://wiki.openpilot.org/display/WIKI/OpenPilot ... which will enable you to configure the flight controller properly. Please note that the latest version that supports the CC3D board is 15.02.02 just scroll down a bit on the download page to find this version. Once you have it installed open it up and youll be welcomed with the main menu. See that big green button? Press that to setup your quad. 

Step 7: FPV That Quad

Attach the board camera with zip ties so in the event of a crash it will have some room to move a little and hopefully wont break. Solder power connectors from the power board on the bottom and attach the video transmitter to the top with a zip tie. Connect video signal from the camera and power from the board to the camera and transmitter. Finally tidy the cables so they aren’t in the way of the props.


2017年3月7日星期二

Get good Lipo battery and Charger for Racing Drone

As we know, Lipo battery is very important for rscing drones, if you want to win a drone racing, get a good Lipo battery is very important. But how to choose a good Lipo battery and how to care our Lipo battery? Next let me introduce the Lipo battery and charger for racing 
drone.
Even if you buy a pre-built drone like the Vortex 250 Pro or Vendetta, racing drones like these don’t come with batteries. I won’t go into all the specifics on how to pick a good LIPO Battery in this article, but just know that the most common battery for a racing drone is 14.8v 1300mah 60C. A battery with specifications like this will give you the best power-to-weight ratio for the drones we recommend and the higher C rating means that it will handle higher currents and last longer than a battery with a lower C rating. I recommend Tattu 1300mAh 4S 75CLipo battery and Tattu Rline 1300mAh 4S 75C Lipo battery.
Get at least two or three batteries to start with, since flight time on a racing drone is very limited and you’ll need as much practice as you can get. You can buy even more batteries in the future, but if you have more than just two or three, you’ll need to look into Parallel charging so you don’t spend 10 hours trying to charge all of them. One thing you should buy (no matter what battery you get) is a voltage checker. LIPO batteries do not like being over discharged and can even break if discharged too much. It doesn’t really matter what kind of LIPO checker you get, but the Gens Ace & Tattu LIPO to USB voltage checker is nice because it can also turn your battery into a Phone charger!


Don’t buy a $15 charger. You will regret it! LIPO batteries are not like AA batteries. They should be charged and handled with care and never overcharged. With a good charger and a little common sense, LIPO batteries are not a huge fire hazard, but using a cheap low quality charger can be extremely dangerous. Get a good charger (nothing cheaper than $30), read the manual and everything will be fine.

If you plan on charging more than one battery at a time, buy a parallel charger and watch our video about parallel charging. For parallel charging, you’ll need a charger that can output at least 8 amps. That should be enough to charge up to 6 of the batteries we recommended in about an hour. If you plan on charging even more than 6 batteries at once, or charging at a faster rate, higher amp output is always better. The EV-Peak C4 is a good starter charger, but you can always go crazy and get something like the EV-Peak SD1.

Racing Drone Lipo battery online Shop: